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Why isn't jewellery made from pure gold?

Pure gold, that is 24 karat, is a very soft metal. That is why the gold in jewellery is usually mixed with metals such as copper and silver. We briefly explain what the mix gives gold and how it relates to karat.

Last updated: October 22, 20263 min read
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Why is pure gold soft?

In its pure form, gold is a bright yellow, dense, soft and malleable metal: it can be hammered thin and drawn into wire.1 The Royal Mint also notes that pure gold is too soft for many uses.2 This property, which makes gold easy to work, is a drawback for a ring or bracelet worn every day.

What is gold mixed with in jewellery?

To make it durable, gold is mixed with other metals; this mix is called an alloy.2 According to the World Gold Council, alloying gives durability to malleable gold and is also used to change its colour.3

  • Yellow gold: the metals alongside the gold are mostly copper or silver.3
  • Red (rose) gold: the pink tone comes from copper; the more copper, the stronger the red.34
  • White gold: gold is mixed with white metals such as palladium or silver, and the surface is usually plated with rhodium.3

Karat tells you how much of the mix is gold

Karat is expressed in 24 parts; 24 karat is pure gold.2 As the karat goes down, the share of gold decreases and the share of the other metals in the mix increases.

KaratGold (in 24 parts)Other metals (in 24 parts)
24 karat240
22 karat222
18 karat186
14 karat1410
9 karat915

The part ratios in the table are taken from the Royal Mint's explanation of karat.2

Does mixing make gold "fake"?

No. An 18-karat piece of jewellery is 75% gold, and the remaining 25% is mostly copper or silver.3 This does not mean the piece is not gold; it only shows that it is not pure and that its karat is below 24. What matters is that the piece is of the stated karat.

How is the karat of jewellery verified?

Colour or shine alone does not show the karat; karat is determined by measurement. Three methods are common at the jeweller: the touchstone, the acid test and XRF analysis.

FAQ

Is jewellery made from 24-karat gold?

Because pure gold is too soft, the gold in jewellery is usually mixed with other metals; this makes the piece more durable.

Which metals are mixed into jewellery gold?

Mostly copper and silver; white gold uses white metals such as palladium or silver.

Where does the colour of red gold come from?

From the copper in the mix. As the share of copper increases, the colour turns red.

How much gold is in 18-karat jewellery?

18 of 24 parts, that is 75%, is gold; the remaining 6 parts are other metals.

Karat isn’t guessed. It’s measured.

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