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How is gold karat measured? Touchstone, acid test and XRF

Karat tells you how many parts out of 24 of an alloy are pure gold. Jewellers commonly measure this ratio in three ways: the touchstone, the acid test and XRF analysis. We compared all three side by side on the same criteria.

Last updated: October 11, 20264 min read

What do karat and fineness mean?

Karat writes the share of pure gold in an alloy out of 24; fineness writes it out of 1,000. They are two ways of writing the same ratio: 18 karat means 18 of 24 parts are gold, which corresponds to 750 fineness.1

KaratFinenessGold contentWhere you see it
24 karat999 and abovePure goldGram gold, bars
22 karat91691.6%Bangles, Turkish quarter gold coins
18 karat75075%Diamond and designer jewellery
14 karat58558.5%Everyday jewellery

Touchstone

The piece is rubbed on a black stone, acid is dropped on the streak it leaves, and the colour of the streak is compared with samples of known karat. The result is a judgement made by eye, and a scratch is left on the piece. One test takes 1–2 minutes.

Acid test

Acid is applied directly to the surface of the piece and the reaction is observed. The result is not an exact number but a karat range (for example 14–18). It etches the surface; on plated pieces the information it gives is limited. One test takes 2–5 minutes.

XRF analysis

XRF sends X-rays into the piece. Each element emits rays at its own energy: gold at 9.71 keV, silver at 22.16 keV. The detector counts these rays and the software turns them into ratios.2

1PlacePut the piece on the measuring window in the chamber.
2StartClose the lid and tap START.
3MeasurementThe tube sends X-rays into the piece from below; the detector counts the rays that come back.
4ResultKarat, fineness and the ratio of 20 elements on screen in 30–60 seconds.

The three methods side by side

CriterionTouchstoneAcid testXRF
Effect on the pieceLeaves a scratchEtches the surfaceNone
ResultKarat by eyeKarat range (e.g. 14–18)Percentage of all 20 elements
Time1–2 minutes2–5 minutes30–60 seconds
Plating detectionNoneLimitedReveals thin plating

FAQ

Does XRF measurement damage the piece?

No. There is no cutting, scraping or acid; the piece stays exactly as it was before the measurement.

What does a 916 stamp mean?

It shows that 916 of every thousand parts are pure gold; this corresponds to 22 karat.

How long does one measurement take?

With the PURIX X1, 30–60 seconds per piece.

All values are measured under the manufacturer’s test conditions and may vary with the shape and surface of the sample.

Karat isn’t guessed. It’s measured.

Try the live analysis to see how a measurement looks on screen, or request a quote for your business.